New York, Los Angeles, Washington DC, San Francisco. Mention these cities and vivid images come to mind, even if they’re cribbed from postcards. Or try Detroit, New Orleans, Boston or Houston. Most American cities play distinct roles in the American psyche: they’re busy, violent, brainy, hip, sprawling, or tragic. But what is there to say about Cleveland? Although it is yet another industrial port city that failed to recover from decades of redlining and outsourcing, it’s also the quintessentially banal American city. Characters on TV shows are often given roots in Cleveland to score jokes about their naivety; despite its storied history and recent struggles with crime, Cleveland remains shorthand for bland Midwestern American-ness.

St. Louis, Wichita, Biloxi, Memphis, Kansas City, Boise. I’ve visited a lot of mid-sized American cities in the throes of redevelopment, but I haven’t seen anything approaching Cleveland’s aggressive effort to resuscitate its downtown and reconnect its ruptured arteries. Most cities simply install a new sports stadium, maybe a new office park, and then cross their fingers and hope for the best. Judging from the Quicken Loans Arena (possibly the most awkwardly titled venue in America), Cleveland also believes in stadiums, yet it’s also gone much further by rezoning several districts into mixed-use neighborhoods, aggressively marketing its historical areas, and transforming Euclid Avenue into a pleasant thoroughfare with a dedicated bus lane, space-age bus shelters, and a single 25mph lane for cars. Simple touches like lower speed limits, mown lawns, and pedestrian right-of-way make more of a difference than any stadium or casino.

To borrow from Fitzgerald, do American cities have second acts? Would it be possible for Cleveland to someday rival, say, Chicago? In 2005, Cleveland was voted “the most livable city in America” by The Economist (sharing the honor with Pittsburgh). On the surface, this selection is surpising − but if a city has nothing to lose, perhaps it’s possible to truly innovate while offering a low cost of living. The image of Cleveland as an edgy arts mecca is probably a ways off: The Economist also named Cleveland as “the best place for a business conference”.

Also known as the Forest City and the Mistake on the Lake, Cleveland is no model city. Like many rust belt cities, the dividing line between rich and poor is razor thin. University Circle is dotted with schools and research centers, winding paths, and green parks while just a few blocks on either side, the landscape abruptly shifts to liquor stores and vacant buildings. But if Cleveland continues to reclaim its older buildings and place a premium on mobility, infill, and aesthetics rather than office parks and tourist attractions, it’s possible to envision a functional city a few years down the road. Regardless, it feels good to show up in a city prepared for a tour of the usual blight and sprawl, yet discover that the people in charge really do care.

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The Ohio Players – Skin Tight
from Skin Tight. Mercury, 1974